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Tap into the Community of knowledge here. Am I an idiot and lose a job Tig pedal question. Post Pictures and descriptions of shop layout, equipment and gear. This includes machinery, welding equipment, air delivery systems and just about anything else you use in your shop. Looking for a Mag Drill. Lathe chatter. Post projects and pictures or check out the projects of fellow members.
Wheels for welding cart. Miller Gen 3 headgear. Current control slider remote. Tips, tricks, calculator shortcuts and other help for measuring it right the first time. Stair Railing Layout and New hoss on the farm. Trade or sell your equipment with other members of the site.Rather than buying an anvil, I decided to build one out of a piece of track and tie plate I found in my grandfathers old barn.
The barn is maybe 75 — years old and has various pieces of farm equipment in and around it. There are various examples on youtube of railroad track anvils. A lot of them involve drilling or cutting holes in the base of the track and then securing it to a stand.
Why not weld the track to a tie plate, and then bolt them to a stand? Seems to me having a wider base of the tie plate would distribute pressure while beating on the track. I wanted something besides your typical piece of railroad track welded, chained, or bolted to a stand. I wanted something that was semi-portable. So that when I build my pole barn I can move the anvil and stand to the barn. Using an angle grinder with a grinding rock, I ground bevels on the tie plate. The bevels are for the weld to go into.
I then used a wire wheel and grinding disk to remove rust from the piece of track and tie plate. Rust is terrible for welding The molten metal from the welding wire or welding rod does not tie into rust, and the rust can cause pin holes in the weld. Pin holes are small holes that weaken the weld. Before welding get as much of the rust and paint off as you can. My generator needed to be ran, so I pulled it out of the shed and used it to power the grinder and welding machine for tacking the parts into place.
Once the metal has been cleaned and prepped, I tacked the 4 corners with my flux-core welding machine. Once several tacks are in place short welds can be made. If too much welding is done on one side, the tacks on the opposite can break.
When the tacks break the parts move. It is important to alternate sides when welding. Three welds about a inch and a quarter long were made on each side of the tie plate. On the bottom of the tie plate a weld was made on each end about 2 inches long. All welds were at least 3 passes. Between each weld a wire brush was used to remove slag.
ER70 welding wire has the same rating as a welding rod, which is 70, pounds per square inch. One square inch of ER or weld is supposed to hold 70, pounds.
Things like quality of the metal you are welding to, rust, paint, contributes to weld contamination. The more a weld is contaminated, the weaker it is. Rather than building a metal stand, why not use a piece of telephone pole?
They will cut the poles to anylength you want. I landed a piece close to 4 feet long for a lot cheaper than I could build a stand out of metal. From what I understand, the top of the anvil should be the same height as your knuckles are from the floor. In other words your knuckles and the anvil top should be the same distance off the floor.
Measuring my knuckles that comes to 28 inches. To figure the height of the anvil base I subtracted the height of the anvil from the base of the tie plate to the top of the track. With the track welded to the tie plate and the base cut to length, it was not time to mount the anvil to the base. Each lag bolt has a split washer and flat washer. I can put 4 more lag bolts into the tie plate.
Before I buy 4 more I want to see how these work.Powered by mwForum 2. Not logged in American Welding Society Forum. By Superflux Date Edited Something I wrote for a Newbie's Blacksmithing forum. I see a lot of questions and myths about anvils made from Railroad Track. Typically it is a medium carbon 0. Plus, it's a gonna takes you a one BIG azzed fire to do the job properly. But as the ol' Smitty says So, Rail steel is similar to T-1 and AR steels.
These manganese steel recipes are designed for impact and wear resistance. These are different than what the buckets themselves are made of T The bottom is much softer. After a bit of train traffic, the tops become much harder. Now on to how to fab up an anvil. A Leave it as is, mount onto a log maybe drive a few large nails or spikes to keep it in place and start pounding away. B Weld the rounded parts with a medium soft hardfacing welding rod stick or wire and grind off until flat and smooth.
C Attack it with an oxy-acetylene cutting torch. Carve a pointed horn, grind the hell out of it all to remove the torch cut nicks and grooves with the top flattened, scallop out the front and rear, then scallop out the base pate and you will have a reasonably respectable looking ASO anvil shaped object.
D Fabricate Start off with a much longer piece of track than needed. Trim to basic overall length and shape a horn and scallop as recommended in step B. Now, with the left over length of track, cut off a small piece for a table and a larger piece for the face.
Weld these in place as you see fit for your own personal design or as close to a traditional shape as you like. My preferred weld metals for this are plain old E, or if money is no object use E stainless steel stick rod.
I recommend the because of the high nickel will reduce the tendency for cracking. You can also use an equivalent Flux cored wire in the largest size your wire feeder can handle. Note: if you have a V unit, this will take a LONG time and will be very difficult to get a solid weld.
Just saying E Or any combination of the above. OK now for the techno mumbo jumbo part, but I'll keep it simple, brief and low keyed. It is true that the flat bottom is softer than the top.
Top side is quench hardened at the mill, but is still not as hard as when after it has been in service. Manganese steels some recipes receive little to NO benefit from attempting to quench harden due to low carbon content.The construction is classical.
There is flat surface for basic works and a horn for forming and flattering. I made the anvil out of railroad track. Why did I use it in particular? I gave consideration on it in my video. Did you use this instructable in your classroom? Add a Teacher Note to share how you incorporated it into your lesson.
At the beginning we mark our future horn. I chose the side of track which was close to the hole to use an angle grinder less.Dbfz random team generator
Having marked and cut the horn I changed a cutter wheel to a grinding wheel then I did aligning the front side of the anvil. And in this moment people often stop.
Why did I use square not round? The square shape will let us reach it. With the same reason working with a hammer we have to fix the anvil also well. Indeed even this small piece of railroad track is enough to injure your legs.
For this I cut some armature into 4 pieces and bended hooks. I welded 4 pieces of armature to the edges of the anvil then I set the anvil into the stump. This simple fasten makes your work safer. Fixing into the stub and knocking our hooks into it. We should knock it until it seems that the anvil staying enough steady. You can make your own variants or you can wait for mine. The most interesting things with working on the anvil you can see in my video. I tried making it short, informative and pleasure for watching.
How long is your section of rail road track?Pca correlation
I bought a 30 inch section from a high school shop teacher and am planning to make One or two anvils Reply 3 years ago. I think finding someone with an acetylene torch would make short work of the initial shaping. I love your method of making a hardy hole! Very creative.Login or Sign Up. Logging in Remember me. Log in. Forgot password or user name?Athena string functions
Welding railroad rail anvil. Posts Latest Activity.Intel mebx password hp
Page of 1. Filtered by:. Previous template Next. Welding railroad rail anvilAM. Hello, I have an home made anvil made from a short 18" peice of rail road rail. Dad's had it for years, he made it, and it works well for what it is. Well, now it's mine, and not being able to leave well enough alone, I want to modify it by welding a 4"w x 6"l x 1.
Question: What rod would be best for this process? Is something special needed to weld railroad rail? I figure I'll need to stick weld it as my mig is only a Any info would be appreciated. Obviously I want this thing to be tough enough to beat on. Thanks, -D. Tags: None. Don't do it.
Comment Post Cancel. There are a couple of RR welders on here, and maybe one will give you some advice, but most of that work is electroslag or thermite welded, as I recall. Mike W. I would weld your piece of metal to something else.
Then you will have two items to beat on. You would be much better served to weld that piece of plate underneath the anvil for added mass than to try and lamainate it one as a new face. Proud owner of Bushwacker Mobile Welding Pictures.
Rick in Arkansas www. Point taken guys. I plan on getting a real anvil sometime anyway, just thought I might make this neat old thing a bit better. I'll need some once I get my forge built. Derek, Check out www.Railroad tracks are very solid chunks of steel.
Railroad track steel is typically or equivalent hot rolled steel. This is a medium carbon steel with 0. One of the noticeable features of this steel is the high manganese content.
This is a requirement for good reason — it allows for deeper heat treatment. For railroad tracks to perform well in the long term, there are two really important qualities that the steel needs to have: high wear resistance and resistance to fracturing.
The deeper heat treatment allows the steel to have higher strength properties. As you can imagine, trains are heavy and put an extraordinary amount of stress on anything below them. Depending on the size of the trains and rate of use, a track could be expected to last anywhere from 5 to years.
A more ideal hardness is around Rc, where the metal is sufficiently tough to resist cracking.Not enough memory resources are available to complete this ...
Main lines will commonly be pounds per yard, whereas smaller lines could get to around 70 pounds. For very small lines, like old ones for hand carts in mines, you might find it even smaller. This is especially true of older tracks. Cut off a small piece, ideally with a zipcut or some other kind of cutoff disc. Then use a torch to heat up the metal cherry red. When the metal is at the right temperature for heat treating, it will no longer be magnetic.
Try to keep the metal at that temperature for a couple of minutes by feathering the flame back and forth. Once the metal is cool, get a file and see if it digs in. If the file bites in, then the metal is softer than the file. If the file skates across it, then the metal is harder.
This is actually pretty popular metal to work with among knife makers. Lots of people have also gone to town grinding these things down into small anvils. The steel really holds up well against hammering, and these little anvils can work great for fine, detailed work. It can be hard to find one that will read temperatures high enough for heat treating, and at this range they get a bit pricier. This one on Amazon will do the trick for you. Do you have any comments?
Have you made something interesting with railroad tracks? Post it in the comments below! I've been working in manufacturing and repair for the past 12 years.
My specialty is machining. I manage a machine shop with multiaxis CNC machines for aerospace and medical prototyping and contract manufacturing. I'm very hands-on with programming, setup and operation of the equipment. Now I spend my extra time teaching others what I've learned.
I don't consider myself an expert on everything, but I do my homework and share what I know. Titanium machining is often discussed for milling, but there isn't a lot of available information on turning titanium. While most titanium is usually handled by milling, it's not uncommon to turn Besides all the regular uses, forge welding is necessary for anyone that wants to try their hand at making Damascus steel.
There are many ways to do it, and each person generally has their ownEver since crane and RR-rail became available in the 's anvils have been being made of it.
Building a Railroad Track Anvil
Hobbiests, welders and even manufacturers of small bench anvils have used it to make anvils. They range from rough cut to machined or finely hand crafted.
Some even have little square hardie holes. In general these are not suitable for forging except the smallest items and are best used for bench work and sheet metal. All these below were photographed at that event. This year it seemed to me that there was a LOT of rail road rail anvils. I'm told that two years ago the most plentiful items were sheet metal tools. LEFT: These rough cut pieces have the flange under the horn and heel cut off short.
This is a not a good way to cut a rail anvil. The anvil is too light not to have support directly under all the work surfaces. Plain Sections cleaned up and painted.
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Short Horned finished and aged. Beautifully Finished railroad rail anvil. Wost of the lot Old railroad rail anvil in "Honest" Bob Cruickshank's collection. Although this is one of the rougher looking RR-rail anvils it has the best general shape. A foot has been left under the horn and it is notched to bolt it down.
If slabs were welded on to the sides of the web to stiffen it and the horn dressed it would be a fair light duty anvil. In general RR-rail anvils are too light for most forging.Fiat punto heater switch removal
The best for heavier work are the plain cut off sections like the red painted ones above. RR-rail anvil with hardie and machined horn. There are a number of folks that spend a lot of time whittling square hardy holes in RR-rail anvils.
The welded on horn is unusual. It has Caterpillar ground engagement steel cutting lip for its top and side gussets. I was replacing the edge on a big loader bucket and had good stuff from the old one left over. Ground engagement steel is tough stuff that welds well.
Notice the strapped hammer? Scott says, I like strapped hammers.
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